Let's start by mentioning that Vyborg represents today the second most populated and the largest city in the Leningrad Oblast. Everything began in the XIII century when in 1293, the Swedes had founded a fortress on Castle Island later named as Vyborg.
The European exotica of Vyborg, initially founded by the Swedes and later populated by the Finns, Germans and, certainly, Russians, is exposed immediately at the railway station. On arriving in Vyborg by bus or train, the first thing you'll see is a big letter W, very similar to the logo of a reputed motor company. However, this letter W represents a historical symbol of the city, i.e. the first letter of the city name in the language of Swedish founders: Wiborg. This Latin letter determines the main paradoxical impression: Vyborg is a foreign city within the Leningrad Oblast.
In 1403, Vyborg was assigned the honorable status of city; in the middle of XV century, the castle was extended by new towers, having transformed into one of the most beautiful cities of Sweden.
Vyborg had a significant strategic importance for Russia and was repeatedly attacked. The Russians would not have been Russians, if they had not accomplished the initiated objective. It was the time of rule of Peter the Great when in 1710 they won the victory. Peter the Great conquered the city. It took 11 years for the Vyborg city to become an official part of the Russian Empire in 1721. The Vyborg governorate was constituted in 1744, but the residents were allowed to preserve their Swedish laws and they never experienced any and all delights of serfdom. So much the better! In 1918 the Civil War broke out in Finland and Vyborg became one of the main centers of the "red" Finns. There and then the Russo-Finnish War took place within the years 1939-40, following which the eastern part of the Finnish Karelia, including Vyborg, was transferred to the USSR. However, already in 1941 during the offensive attack by the Finnish army, Vyborg was referred again to the jurisdiction of Finland. This perennial shift of appurtenance ceased in 1944 when Vyborg had ultimately joined the Soviet Union and nothing has changed since that time...
Vyborg is an islet of the old Europe. While speaking about islands in the literal sense, there are several of them here. One of them represents the city heart with a gloomy castle, i.e. citadel of Swedish crusaders. The robust tower of St. Olav is the altitudinal dominant of Vyborg. The sightseeing platform offers a view of idyllic panorama looking like an illustration to some fairy tales by Astrid Lindgren: an ancient small town surrounded by the South, North, Salaka-Lahti and Vyborg Bays. The zigzag land lines penetrate into the water space. Flaky walls and unveiling brickwork constitute a city symbol, the same like triangular roofs and spires.
In fact, the Vyborg Castle is not as huge as it seems from the mainland but you can wander around for hours, since its ambiance is conducive and one can fancy mysteries at each corner. It is a perfect place for ghosts and re-enactors. For those who would like to see a real Vyborg, not a museum and ghostlike city: it is worth leaving the castle ghosts and making your way to the Serf Square (Krepostnaya Ploshchad) with a monument to the city founder - Torgils Knutsson. To refresh yourself, you can go into the coffeehouse on the square, buy a flavored Vyborg pretzel (besides, it is baked following a Medieval monkish recipe) and walk along the narrow streets.
It is like in a bewitched forest: you go from Krepostnaya Street to Vodnoy Zastavy Street, from there - to Progonnaya Street, from there - to Severniy Val and again - to Krepostnaya Street. You can cruise around Vyborg all the day, although the historic center can be passed through in ten minutes. However, it is difficult just to pass through, unless with eyes closed. Standing on Vyborgsky Street you can admire the Merchant Guild House of XIV century and the Guildhall Tower which is one century younger. Thereafter, you go again to Progonnaya Street, right to the burgher's ridge-roofed Homestead. Standing on Vodnoy Zastavy Street, you can be fascinated by the Clock Tower view which in XIX century was considered the most beautiful view of Finland... Such wandering along the lanes laid with granite boulders (the city stands on the granite rock), suddenly and oddly looks like a Vyborg pretzel, attractively smelling caraway and cinnamon from a branded paper pack.
Normally, such walk ends on the Market Square decorated by a paunchy Round Tower of the XVI century. This Tower represents a watershed between the medieval quarters and Modern Age buildings. Onward you can see straight streets, old and quite new buildings. The most common architectural style in Vyborg can be represented as the "North modern" which differs from the common modern style by its monumentality and Scandinavian laconism. As exemplified by the Alvar Aalto Library building, you can see, whether the Finnish functional style of 1930's significantly differed from the Soviet constructivism; after all, as stated above, Vyborg ultimately became a Soviet city in 1944 only.
Vyborg plays the game of contrasts; it has preserved its medieval charm in our contemporary century and it bursts upon tourists like one large scenery of movies about knights and fair ladies. Tournaments are held in the castle annually. Uninformed people arriving in Vyborg on their own business while walking in the summer evening are profoundly astonished at any encountered personages with horned helmets, swords and torches.
It is considered that the oldest residential building of Russia is located in Vyborg, i.e. house #13 in Krepostnaya Street built in 1583. Most probably, this date refers solely to the foundation and basement level; nevertheless, it is impressive.
Things to bring from Vyborg
Vyborg pretzels, Vyborg ale, as well as ornamentals - accurate copies of those found on the excavations of Karelian-Finnish settlements. Fibulas (dress clamps), earrings, bronze and copper chokers, which the craftsmen succeed to reconstitute by duplicating all details.
